Sustainable Fashion Isn’t an Oxymoron & AI Will Prove It
By Roland Dupuy — April 2024
For all its virtues and vices, AI does possess an undeniable advantage of speed over us mere mortals. While this may have complicated implications when it comes to creativity, sheer speed and computing power are always an advantage in the complex world of data and statistical analysis. For fashion business, then, AI has the potential to revolutionize our ways of working and consuming, from delivering more accurate stock and purchase predictions, to optimizing global shipping, and far beyond. The fashion industry is famously resistant to change, however, and AI can often be misjudged as a harbinger of soulless automation and eventual obsolescence. But fashion also desperately needs to clean up its act, and if AI can make that process easier, quicker and — most importantly — cheaper, then the industry can’t ignore the technology for much longer.
For Abbie Morris, the first major hurdle is cleaning up the supply chain to meet current and upcoming environmental standards. The London-based entrepreneur founded AI startup Compare Ethics with her colleague James Omisakin back in 2019, and has since steered the company through multiple high-profile collaborations with fashion brands such as New Look and Reformation.
“I’ve always worked in climate policy. I worked at the UN and World Economic Forum, and I was always preoccupied with the same question: how do we make it easier for businesses to be responsible?,” Morris shares. But the world of policy often moves at a less-than-brisk pace, and she realized an agile startup would be able to make more of an impact on the fashion stage. “The whole reason we created the tool is because we were drowning in a sea of bad reports and data,” Morris continues. Compare Ethics was created with the sole purpose of independently verifying companies’ sustainability and supply chain claims, to ensure they are compliant with government regulations.
For Abbie Morris, the first major hurdle is cleaning up the supply chain to meet current and upcoming environmental standards. The London-based entrepreneur founded AI startup Compare Ethics with her colleague James Omisakin back in 2019, and has since steered the company through multiple high-profile collaborations with fashion brands such as New Look and Reformation.
“I’ve always worked in climate policy. I worked at the UN and World Economic Forum, and I was always preoccupied with the same question: how do we make it easier for businesses to be responsible?,” Morris shares. But the world of policy often moves at a less-than-brisk pace, and she realized an agile startup would be able to make more of an impact on the fashion stage. “The whole reason we created the tool is because we were drowning in a sea of bad reports and data,” Morris continues. Compare Ethics was created with the sole purpose of independently verifying companies’ sustainability and supply chain claims, to ensure they are compliant with government regulations.
“It’s definitely not a silver bullet, but this is a real key part of the green transition.”
ABBIE MORRIS, COMPAREETHICS
An AI-powered algorithm performs between 5 and 13 checks per claim, and analyzes datasets from reports and tracking information, and the data then gets ranked according to its quality. Morris acknowledges the vast amount of work that still faces the fashion industry, from material to labor and transport issues, but sees the AI tool as a first, real example of AI’s potential for revolutionizing the industry. “It’s definitely not a silver bullet, but this is a real key part of the green transition,” she continues. “We need trusted information and data on sustainability if we really want to achieve net zero.”
But certification programs are not without faults, however, and there have been several cases of inaccurate or misleading climate certifications. As Atmos recently reported, brands such as “H&M and Zara’s overreliance on cotton certification schemes allows illegalities to thrive in their supply chains,” which in turn leads to climate injustice, and consumer distrust. Morris is confident, however, that by using AI’s vast potential to its fullest extent, sustainability audits can have a truly 360-degree view of the whole supply chain and manufacturing process, allowing for greater transparency further down the line.
AI’s vast catalyst effect is real, too. Zalando is testing an AI tool that would more accurately assess shoppers’ clothing size. Other AI startups like Flashee and Refiberd are finding new ways of deploying the technology to promote independent designers and enhance fabric recycling, respectively. And let’s not forget, AI itself is capable of tooting its own horn. When we asked ChatGPT what are the main ways in which AI can make fashion more sustainable, the tool, predictably, made us a list: predictive analytics for demand forecasting, supply chain optimization, material innovation, circular economy initiatives, transparency & traceability, and energy efficiency.
Fashion has gingerly begun exploring the world of AI, but it too often ends up in a seemingly-endless debate spiral surrounding fears of losing ‘human’ creativity and originality, arguably the things that make fashion so magical in the first place. And while the concerns certainly are not unfounded, fashion runs the risk of getting bogged down in the back and forth, and missing out on AI’s business and tech potential, which doesn’t necessarily need to encroach on the creative side of things.
For Morris, it’s clear that AI isn’t going anywhere soon, so we’d all better make the most of it and adapt as best we can. “We’re not living in a world where businesses are doing no harm. But many countries around the world are making progress. The US is creating good investment environments and incentivizing a green transition, for now,” she tells. “So if we in the UK don’t press ahead, we’ll be the laughing stock and we’ll get left behind,” she concludes.
Indeed, governments around the world have been passing some impressive environmental legislation recently, such as the Biden administration’s landmark Inflation Reduction Act of 2022. With more and more countries tackling the underregulated fashion industry, brands will face increasing pressure to be transparent. France’s recent “anti-SHEIN” bill, for example, aims to combat virulent throwaway consumerism by establishing a ban on ultra-fast-fashion advertising, and by requiring information on product recycling be displayed alongside purchase options online, among other changes.
The exact impact and effectiveness of the bill remains to be seen, but it’s one of the strongest anti-fast-fashion statements a government has made so far, and if it shows early signs of success, many other countries are sure to follow suit. Consumers are holding brands accountable more than ever before, the fashion industry’s wheels are turning, and AI just might be the key to breaking the industry’s chronically-wasteful cycle.